Eyam is situated on the limestone plateau at 800 feet above sea level and owes much of its growth to centuries of lead mining, and in its more recent past, cotton, silk and boot making.
Eyam is perhaps best known for its connection with the Plague, a major outbreak of which occurred in the village during 1665, reputedly brought in from London on a delivery of cloth destined for George Viccars, the local tailor. Soon after the cloth arrived, the family developed symtoms of the plague and died, as did the occupants of neighbouring cottages. Plaques bearing the family details can be seen on the ‘plague cottages' next to the church.
The local vicar, William Mompesson and Thomas Stanley organised the quarantine of Eyam to prevent the plague spreading, although this wasn't as restrictive as it may seem to us today, as the population wouldn't generally have travelled too far beyond the village. Surrounding villages and local gentry helped by leaving food and medical supplies at the edges of the village. These places are marked by boundary stones, still to be seen, and are often found with a hollow in the top where coins were left in vinegar to kill any germs.
To restrict further contamination, William Mompesson also stopped holding services inside the church and instead preached outdoors at Cucklett Delf, a small valley nearby. An annual commemoration service is held there every year during Eyam Carnival and Well Dressing Week at the end of August. Similarly, the dead were not buried in the churchyard but were interred in surrounding fields.
Many of these graves still exist, the nearest to the village being the Lydgate Graves. The most impressive are known as the Riley Graves, where Mrs Hancock buried her husband and six children, all within eight days. A map of the village, available from the church, shows these sites and many more.
Over a period of fourteen months, the plague killed more than two thirds of the village's population and stories of the survivors, lovers and losses can be seen on the information boards in the church, while the full story can be found in Eyam Museum. In recent years, descendants of plague survivors have undergone medical tests to see if they carry a special gene which may help combat illness today.
In the centre of the village is the charming 17th century Manor House, Eyam Hall, which was built just after the plague. Owned by the Wright family for more than 300 years, the entrance is through a stone flagged hall, and the tour contains a unique tapestry room, the bedroom with the magnificent tester bed and the nursery with toys from the 1860s to the present day.
The 17th century garden has undergone recent restoration and visitors can wander round the knot garden, the avenue of espaliered apple trees, the nuttery, the kitchen garden, and the bowling green. However the hall and garden do have limited opening times to the public so please check before visiting. Next to the hall lies a courtyard containing craft workshops, gift shop and Buttery in the converted barns.
Opposite the hall are the village stocks. They were chiefly used by the Barmote Court in Eyam which presided over the wrong-doings of local lead miners.
The church of St Lawrence dates back to Saxon times and has a font of Saxon origins and Norman pillars, which are thought to rest on Saxon foundations. The nave of the church is of medieval design and dates back to around 1350, although the tower is relatively 'modern' being built as late as the seventeenth century!
The church evolved and changed during the Victorian period and the latest addition is the modern stained glass window installed in 1985 depicting the plague. You can't walk around the church without seeing connections to that terrible time. The Plague Register gives the names of all the people who died, copied from the original church register. And next to the altar is a chair used by Mompesson, thought to have been made locally, it was rescued in the 1800s from a second hand shop in Liverpool!
The oldest and most striking feature of the churchyard is the eighth-century Celtic Cross. One of the best preserved examples in the country, it is decorated with a mixture of Christian and pagan symbols and may have originally been a wayside preaching cross. Nearby is the table tomb of Catherine Mompesson. Her name on the top of the tomb has a spelling mistake which the seventeenth-century stonemason duly corrected.
On the south wall of the church is a remarkable sundial, built by William Shaw and dated 1775. On a sunny day it not only shows the time quite accurately in half hours, but it also indicates the time in places worldwide.
See location of Eyam on Google Maps
(map reference SK 215766)
