Ashbourne is host to one of the Oldest Shrovetide football games in England and although it was first recorded in 1682, it is thought to date back to the 12th century. Though various attempts were made to suppress it over the years it has continued unabated ever since. By 1928 it had become so respectable that the then Prince of Wales was invited to start the game. From that year on it was known as the Royal Shrovetide Football game – the present Prince of Wales 'put up' the ball in 2003.
The game is played annually on Shrove Tuesday and Ash Wednesday, and consists of two teams, one from those born to the North of the River Henmore, and one from those born South of the river – known as Up'ards and Down'ards. Ashbourne becomes a war zone, with shops, cafés and pubs boarded up on these two days!
The majority of the able bodied men, women and children take to the streets to play what is probably the largest football game in the world! The two teams number in their hundreds and the playing field is three miles long and two miles wide, with the town of Ashbourne in the middle!
The two goals are on the sites of two old mills situated three miles apart, at Clifton and Sturston. Originally a goal was scored by a player striking the mill wheel three times with the ball; now it's a board on a purpose built stone plinth. The ball may be kicked, carried or thrown, but generally proceeds in a series of 'hugs' invisible to the spectator. The game can last for many hours, finishing well after dark. Players seem to spend a lot of time in the Henmore Brook!
The game starts each day at 2pm when the ball is 'turned up' in the Shaw Croft Car Park. The game then lasts until 10pm. If a goal is scored before 6pm, then a new ball is 'turned up' again and a new game started. If the goal is after 6pm then the game ends for that day.
The balls themselves are quite literally works of art and take several weeks to paint. Made by Ashbourne man John Harrison, they are larger than standard footballs, weighing around 4lbs and are filled with cork chippings to allow them to float in the river. If a ball is goaled, it becomes the proud possession of the scorer.
The rules are quite complex when it comes to scoring the goal – the actual person who scores is pre-chosen. When the ball reaches the goal, the game is paused and the ball is then handed to the member of that team who has been given the honour of actually goaling the ball. Goaling consists of knocking the ball against the goal stone. If no-one goals it, then the person that turned-up the ball gets to take it home. However, many can be seen hanging in the Green Man Pub.
Burlesque upon the Great Frost, written in 1683 by Charles Cotton (1630-1687)
Two towns, that long that war had raged
Being at football now engaged
For honour, as both sides pretend,
Left the brave trial to be ended.
Till the next thaw for they were frozen
On either part at least a dozen
With a good handsome space between 'em
Like Rollerich stones, if you've seen 'em
And could no more run, kick, or trip ye
Than I can quaff off Aganippe.
The Anthem
The Ashbourne Football song was written for a concert in 1891, held to raise funds to pay fines for playing the game in the street. It is now sung each day at the pre-game lunch in the Green Man.
Words to the Song
There's a town still plays this glorious game, Tho' tis but a little spot.
And year by year the contest's fought, From the field that's called Shaw Croft.
Then friend meets friend in friendly strife, The leather for to gain,
'And they play the game right manfully, In snow, sunshine or rain.
Chorus
'Tis a glorious game, deny it who can?
That tries the pluck of an Englishman.
For loyal the Game shall ever be, No matter when or where,
And treat that Game as ought but the free, Is more than the boldest dare.
Though the up's and down's of its chequered life, May the ball still ever roll,
Until by fair and gallant strife, We've reached the treasur'd goal.
'Tis a glorious game, deny it who can?
That tries the pluck of an Englishman.
Further Information
Ashbourne is about 16 miles from Derby and is easy to reach on the A52. If you plan to visit on one of the two days of Shrovetide Football then it's best not to park in the town centre otherwise you may find your car gets damaged. As the game starts in Shawcroft car park, it isn't possible to park in it on one of these days (for obvious reasons!)
